Experience more of Bosnia and Herzegovina with a visit to Višegrad, a small town nestled in the heart of Eastern Bosnia and Herzegovina. Explore the turbulent history, famous bridge, scenic vistas, and fascinating culture in this comprehensive Visegrad travel guide.
This travel guide equips you with all the essentials for embarking on a journey to Višegrad. Whether you’re planning a day trip or opting for a charming overnight stay in this Bosnian town, you’ll have the opportunity to explore the country’s second most renowned bridge and immerse yourself in the unique pace of life away from bustling urban centers. Delve into Višegrad’s turbulent history, which continues to resonate in modern times. Additionally, Višegrad serves as an ideal stopover for further exploration into Bosnia and Herzegovina or neighboring Serbia.
About Višegrad
Višegrad is in Eastern Bosnia and Herzegovina within the Republika Srpska. Despite its small size, Višegrad boasts a unique blend of influences dating back to the Ottoman Empire. The town lies at the meeting point of the Drina and Rzav rivers and has a population of about 10,000 inhabitants.
Višegrad’s Tragic Past
This would not be a proper Višegrad travel guide without looking a little deeper into the tragic events that happened here in the early 90’s. Memories of the Bosnian War (1992-1995) still echo loudly for those living here today. Ethnic and Political tensions remain simmering below the surface throughout Balkans and in Višegrad.
Višegrad Before 1992
Back in 1991, Višegrad had a population of 21,000 inhabitants, with 63% (~14,500) of the population identifying as Bosniaks (Balkaninsight.com). The term Bosniaks (not to be confused with the term Bosnian) refers to people from the Southern Slavic ethnic group native to Bosnia. They’re mostly Muslims, and the term Bosniak is often used interchangeably with Bosniak Muslim. Višegrad at the time was part of Yugoslavia.
Višegrad during the Bosnian War
Shortly after the start of the Bosnian War, Višegrad was the site of one of the worst genocides in Europe since World War Two. In the spring and summer of 1992, an ethnic cleansing occurred. During this time, approximately 3,000 Bosniak civilians were killed by Serb paramilitary forces. This included many woman and children in what has been described as “one of the most comprehensive and ruthless campaigns of ethnic cleansing during the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina” (source). The famous 16th Century Mehmed Pasha Sokolovic Bridge was one of the key sites of the killings, with many Bosniaks taken to the bridge and executed. Their bodies thrown into the Drina River below. This is not the first time the bridge has been used for such a purpose, there are records of 1,500 Bosnian’s being killed here in 1946 during the Second World War.
The genocide that occurred in Višegrad remains a controversial topic today. There has been denial of war crimes and criticism of ignoring past atrocities (source). I highly encourage you to learn more about this before visiting. These are good places to start:
- Guardian Article on the war crimes in Višegrad.
- Overview of the genocide and why it’s important to have respect and awareness.
- Case Sheet from the International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia (ICTY).
- Blog of Višegrad Genocide Memories – by a family who assisted with searching for human remains.
As of today, only about 1,500 Bosniaks live in Visegrad, making up about 15% of the population.
While it may seem somber, delving into the dark historical context of Višegrad, is essential for travelers privileged with the freedom to explore without fear. Travel serves as an avenue for profound learning, offering insights into the human experience, the sacrifices made for freedom, and the remarkable resilience of those who endured. Understanding this backdrop enriches our journey, fostering empathy and appreciation for the enduring spirit of the people and the place.
Arriving in Višegrad – Travel Guide
Depending on where you’re coming from. Using public transport there are two main ways to get to Višegrad either by bus or boat.
Bus from Sarajevo
Check out the timetable to get from Sarajevo here. You can either buy your ticket on the bus or book in advance.
Boat from Bajina Basta, Serbia
When I visited Višegrad, I arrived from Serbia via a boat cruise up the stunning Drina River. Read more about my boat trip here.
If you’re interested in taking the boat Serbia, the only operator Tara Tours. Be sure to plan ahead, as the boat does not run every day and only between March and October.
What to do in Višegrad
Despite Višegrad’s turbulent history, it is well worth a visit. This Višegrad travel guide breaks down the key things to do on your visit. While there isn’t a huge amount to do here, there is enough to justify staying a night. Explore the town, take in panoramic views of the town and valley, explore more of the Drina River and cross the famous bridge. Take it slow and you’ll have an enjoyable time here. Višegrad’s proximity to Sarajevo and neighbouring Serbia make it a good place incorporate into a larger Balkan adventure.
1. The Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge
A UNESCO world heritage site, the Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge was built in 1577 by the Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. At almost 200m long, It has an impressive eleven arches spanning across the Drina River. This bridge is the second most famous in Bosnia, after the iconic Mostar Bridge. The bridge become famous thanks to Yugoslavian author Ivo Andri’s novel, The Bridge on the Drina, first published in 1945.
“The bridge on the Drina is not just a bridge; it is the heart and soul of our town – a symbol of our resilience, our history, and our hope for the future.”
Ivo Andri, The Bridge on the Drina
2. Walk to a Panoramic Viewpoint
For 360 degree views over Višegrad and the surrounding valley I recommend walking up to this viewpoint. It’s not a long walk but worth it for views up and down the valley.
3. Amble Around the Andricgrad
Andricgrad is the newest part of town, located on the peninsula between the two rivers it contains a cinema, restaurants, cafes, shops, offices and an orthodox church. It is dedicated to the Nobel Prize winner and famous author Ivo Andri. The name Andricgrad literally translates to Andrić’s city. Andricgrad was created by film director Emir Kusturica as a film set. Construction officially finished in 2014, yet there remains large parts which are not completed. The construction of the Andricgrad was somewhat controversial with accusations of ignoring the events of 1992-1995.
Walking around Andricgrad has an unusual atmosphere and is completely different from the rest of Višegrad due to it’s pristine streets and new feel. Wander from the Andricgrad’s main street and you will come across unfinished buildings, churches missing tiles and flooring half finished.
4. Take a Boat Ride
Explore more of the Drina River in a boat. The ride will take you up the Drina River through narrow canyons, gorges and past densly forested river banks as you explore more of eastern Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you’re looking for a boat ride, there’s plenty of operators available and rides start from near the old bridge.
Where to Eat in Višegrad
There are several options for eating in Višegrad, as with all my travel guides, I encourage you to explore on your own, get out there and support local businesses. For those looking for a recommendation:
- There are various restaurants in the Andricgrad as well as the nearby town. All decent quality
- For a more authentic local experience head outside of the main town to Restoran Ušće Višegrad. It’s a nice walk across the bridge and along opposite side of the river. This restaurant has seating looking over the river and the Andricgrad. The food is reasonably priced and was delicious.
- There are also several restaurants on the town side of the old bridge, I haven’t tried these but let me know if you end up going to one.
Where to Stay in Višegrad
If you’re planning to stay the night in Višegrad, I recommend looking into one of the guesthouses that are in the town. It’s a great way to meet locals and support local business.
Leaving Višegrad
Use this travel guide for how to get to Sarajevo or into neighbouring Serbia. To get out of Višegrad, you can get a bus, boat or a taxi. The bus is the cheapest option but bus times are hard to find. I found that getbybus had the most relevant information.
Bus to Sarajevo
Check out the timetable for Sarajevo here. Just buy a ticket on the bus, no need to book in advance.
Cuprija Bus Stop
I had a lot of trouble locating the bus stop called Višegrad, Cuprija. Fortunately, my accommodation host was able to help. Check out the photo below on where to find it. It’s located here, below the zip-line station at a small shelter. Simply stand on the side of the road opposite the river and wait for the bus to arrive. For me the bus ended up being almost 50 minutes late. Have faith It will (hopefully) come.
Note: Rome2Rio will tell you that you’re going to need to get a taxi to Goražde. This is not correct, there is a bus.
Take the Boat into Serbia
It’s possible to catch the boat from Višegrad to Bajina Basta in Serbia. Read more about my boat trip here. Taking a boat is a far more exciting way to travel into a new country compared to just catching a bus!
If you’re interested in getting into Serbia this way visit Tara Tours. Be sure to plan ahead, as the boat does not run every day and only between March and October.
Travelling Elsewhere
Unfortunately, I can’t help you out much if you want to go elsewhere from Višegrad. I’ve investigated and there’s basically no information about connections elsewhere. If you do find how to get elsewhere let me know in the comments. As a starting point I would recommend searching getbybus and asking a local.
Bosnia and Herzegovina with Serbian Flags?
For the more observant traveller you will notice that despite being in Bosnia and Herzegovina, there are a lot of Serbian Flags. In fact, I counted far more Serbian flags than Bosnian. Here’s a rough tally from one afternoon in Višegrad.
| Flag | Count |
|---|---|
| Serbia | 10 |
| Bosnia and Herzegovina | 3 |
The reason for the Serbian flag being much more prominent is because Višegrad is within the Republika Srpska. The Republika Srpska is one of two entities within Bosnia and Herzegovina. Within Europe, Bosnia and Herzegovina remains one of the least visited and least developed countries. Read more about how this came to be and Bosnia and Herzegovina’s turbulent recent history here.
Conclusion – Višegrad Travel Guide
Explore more of Bosnia and Herzegovina with this Višegrad Travel Guide. Learn about the history, the famous bridge and wander around the streets of the town. Take it slow and embrace small town life. Stop here and spend the night as part of a larger journey through the Balkans.
Have you visited Višegrad? Let me know what you thought about it in the comments below.
Happy Exploring!
Kieren